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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble place earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.